Vietnam look what we did ! January 2026

Northern Vietnam Loop: Mountains, Jungles & Lakes

The Northern Vietnam Loop, venturing from the bustling streets of Hanoi into the dramatic karst landscapes of Ha Giang and Tuyen Quang, is a route of stark contrasts and unparalleled beauty. Spanning over three weeks of riding, this journey took us through some of Southeast Asia's most spectacular mountain scenery, challenging us with steep gradients and rewarding us with vibrant hill tribe culture and serene waterways.

We completed this extensive loop from late December to mid-January, a time when the north can be misty and cool, adding a mystical atmosphere to the towering limestone peaks. From the grueling climbs of the Ha Giang region to the peaceful shores of Thac Ba Lake, this tour tested our legs on the ascents and delighted us with the rich tapestry of Vietnamese life along the way.

Route Overview

• Region: Hanoi, Tuyen Quang, Ha Giang, Yen Bai, Phu Tho
• Duration: ~21 days cycling (Dec 27 - Jan 16) plus touring days
• Terrain: Mix of busy highways, quiet jungle roads, and severe mountain passes
• Difficulty: Very Challenging – significant climbing and technical descents
• Best Time to Ride: October to April (Cooler season, though can be misty)

Cycling in Vietnam

Cycling in Vietnam is an incredible experience, offering a unique blend of bustling city life, serene countryside, and dramatic mountain landscapes. While navigating the traffic can be an adventure in itself, the prevalence of two-wheeled transport makes motorists generally aware of cyclists. Here are a few key things to keep in mind:

• Driving Side: Traffic keeps to the right-hand side of the road.
• Road Rules: The primary rule seems to be "don't run into anyone." Generally, with some exceptions, drivers are more cautious than in places like Sydney.
• Safety with Motorists: Motorists tend to keep a safe distance from cyclists.
• Two-Wheeled Transport: The prevalence of two-wheeled transport, especially low-powered motorbikes, makes it easier to ride on most roads. However, narrow roads with heavy traffic can be challenging.
• Road Conditions: While main highways are generally well-paved, road conditions can vary considerably in remote and mountainous areas, ranging from smooth asphalt to rough, unpaved tracks.
• Mountain Descending: Descending in the mountains carries some risk, particularly when it is wet and road conditions are poor. Extra caution is advised.
• Horn Usage: Unlike in many Western countries, horn use is not typically a sign of aggression. It is used frequently by drivers to signal their presence, especially when overtaking or approaching blind corners. It's a form of communication in the busy traffic, so don't be alarmed by frequent beeping.

Ride from Nong Tien

Major Stops Along the Route

The dramatic limestone peaks of Ha Giang

1. Hanoi: The chaotic and charming capital serves as the start and end point. Navigating the traffic out of the city is an adventure in itself before hitting the open roads.
2. Tuyen Quang: A gateway city to the mountains, offering a mix of urban comfort and scenic riverside views, serving as a key waypoint on both our outward and return legs.
3. Ha Giang City: The launchpad for the famous loop, nestled between rocky outcrops and the Lo River. It marks the transition from rolling hills to high-altitude passes.
4. Du Gia: A highlight of the trip, this remote village is famous for its stunning scenery, waterfalls, and authentic homestays tucked deep within the karst plateau.
5. Thac Ba Lake (Yen Binh): majestic man-made reservoir with hundreds of green islands. A serene contrast to the rugged mountains, perfect for a peaceful homestay experience.

The Challenge of the Northern Mountains

Climbing into the mist near Du Gia

Cycling in Northern Vietnam is defined by its verticality. As we moved north from Tuyen Quang towards Ha Giang, the roads turned upward, presenting relentless gradients that often reached double digits. The ride out to Du Gia was particularly memorable for its raw beauty and physical demand. The roads here weave through limestone forests and traverse high passes that seem to touch the clouds. Managing touring gear on these inclines required patience and stamina, but the descents—winding through terraced rice fields and ethnic minority villages—were pure exhilaration.

The Jungle Retreat: Ban Ba

Relaxing at The BanBa Jungle Lodge

Midway through our return leg, we took a multi-day break at The BanBa Jungle Lodge Retreat in Chiem Hoa. After days of hard riding, this was a sanctuary. Located near the majestic Ban Ba Waterfall, the lodge allowed us to trade our cycling shoes for hiking sandals. We explored the surrounding jungle, soaked in the cool mountain air, and enjoyed the tranquility of the forest. It was a vital pause that allowed us to recover physically and mentally before tackling the final stretch back toward the delta.

Thac Ba Lake Experience

Tranquility at Thac Ba Lake

Avoiding the main highways on the return, we routed through Yen Binh to stay at the GiangTien Homestay on the edge of Thac Ba Lake. Staying in a traditional stilt house overlooking the water was a highlight of the trip. The pace of life here slows down completely. We watched fishermen on their sampans and enjoyed home-cooked meals with our hosts. Riding along the lake offered rolling terrain with shimmering water views—a stark and welcome contrast to the jagged peaks of Ha Giang.

Encounters on the Road

One of the most heartwarming and constant experiences while cycling through rural Vietnam is the chorus of greetings from children. As you ride through villages, kids will often run out to the road, wave enthusiastically, and shout the few English phrases they know, like "Hello!" and "What's your name?". For many, it's a chance to practice what they've learned in school, and their excitement is infectious.

Kids on their way back from School - 2 hour trek!

It wasn't just the children who were curious. The sight of two people on a tandem bicycle was a novelty for many locals, and we often found ourselves being the subject of their photos. These friendly interactions were a wonderful part of the cultural experience.

Key Highlights

• Karst Landscapes: The UNESCO Global Geopark in Ha Giang offers some of the most stunning geological formations in the world.
• Du Gia Village: A remote and vividly beautiful stop that feels untouched by mass tourism.
• Local Markets: Passing through towns like Bac Quang and Viet Quang, we witnessed the vibrant trade of local goods, from colorful textiles to mountain produce.
• The Food: From bowls of Pho in the morning to hearty family-style dinners at homestays, the fuel for our ride was consistently delicious and fresh.

Accommodations Along the Route

Traditional wooden homestay at Thac Ba

Our accommodation strategy mixed comfortable hotels in the cities with authentic homestays in the villages. This variety enriched our experience, giving us both rest and cultural connection. Places we stayed included:

• Noi Bai Airport Hotel (Arrival/Departure logistics)
• Muong Thanh Grand, Tuyen Quang
• Khách Sạn Hùng Vân, Viet Quang
• De La Mont Hotel, Ha Giang
• Bong Bang Homestay 2, Na Hang
• Du Già Lô Lô Homestay (A rustic highlight in the mountains)
• YEN BIEN LUXURY HOTEL, Ha Giang
• Toàn Vinh Hotel, Bac Quang
• The BanBa Jungle Logde Retreat (Our jungle rest stop)
• GiangTien Homestay ThacBa (Lakeside stilt house)
• Le Blanc Heritage Hotel, Yen Bai
• Muong Thanh Luxury, Phu Tho (Viet Tri)

Traffic and Road Conditions

Riding in Vietnam requires hyper-awareness. While the remote mountain roads were often quiet and peaceful, the approach to and from major hubs like Hanoi and Viet Tri involved navigating heavy traffic, trucks, and a sea of motorbikes. The "highway" riding is a skill in itself—flowing like water with the traffic rather than fighting it. However, the further north we pushed, the quieter the roads became, eventually leaving us alone with the mountains and the locals.

Final Thoughts

This Vietnam trip was a journey of endurance and sensory overload. From the misty heights of Du Gia to the luxury of a jungle retreat and the calm waters of Thac Ba, the route provided a complete cross-section of Northern Vietnam. It is a physically demanding tour that requires preparation for steep climbs and varying weather, but the warmth of the people and the grandeur of the landscapes make every pedal stroke worth the effort.

Our Trip

In late December and January, we completed a challenging three-week cycling loop through Northern Vietnam. Starting and ending in Hanoi, our route took us through the dramatic mountains of Ha Giang, the jungles of Tuyen Quang, and the serene Thac Ba Lake. The journey tested our endurance with severe mountain passes but rewarded us with spectacular scenery and a deep dive into the region's rich culture.

Highlights included navigating the remote roads to Du Gia, resting at a jungle lodge near the Ban Ba Waterfall, and experiencing the tranquility of a traditional homestay on the shores of Thac Ba Lake. It was an unforgettable adventure blending physical challenge with natural grandeur.